Pork Buns and Cathay First Class

Day 16 – Last Morning in Paradise
Waking up was bittersweet since even though we had an amazing breakfast just around the corner, only a few hours later we would have to check out and start our trip back home. After showering and getting ready we headed down to breakfast and once again had phenomenal service from all of the staff. Reversing the sweet trend I’d been on for the past two days, I knew I needed to finish the trip with one last salmon benny. K stayed on the sweet track, per normal, and we both enjoyed our last delicious meal at the Legion.

Post-breakfast, it was time for some poolside relaxation, this time focusing mostly on the spectacular vista that lay around us. Sooner than we’d prefer it was time to head back up to the room to change for our flights and finish packing. Check out was just as civilized as our check in, and shortly after getting downstairs we were in a taxi making our way to the airport. However, because our bags were on the larger side, they didn’t both fit in the trunk, so K’s big red suitcase rode shotgun.

We hadn’t really seen the Bali airport on our way in since it had been pretty late (and dark) when we arrived so many days ago. I was surprised how modern and airy it was as compared to other airports I’ve been to. It reminded me of a kid-sized HKG. After check-in, two security screenings, and a duty-free maze, we arrived at the lounge that Cathay (along with a number of other airlines) uses for their premium passengers. It wasn’t anything very special, with a little food and drink, and some more comfortable seats than those in the main terminal. I noticed that we had passed by a Qatar lounge, and since I’m an OW Emerald, and we were traveling on an international F itinerary, I figured that we would be able to get in. For some reason that the lounge agents couldn’t really explain, we weren’t allowed in. Even though the lounge sign clearly showed the OneWorld Sapphire and Emerald ovals, they wouldn’t relent. Defeated, we slunk back to our old seats for a little while longer before it was time to make our way to the gate. I still think that we should have been able to get into the QR lounge, but wasn’t 100% sure at the time and didn’t want to push our luck.

The flight was delayed to board, but once we were settled we were told that we would make up the delay in flight. We were flying on Cathay’s regional 777 business class (since there wasn’t first class service to/from Bali on Cathay). The seats were fine, much better than what US airlines would call business on flights of similar length.

(a snug fit)

Our dinner (luckily our large breakfast and some lounge snacks held us this far) was served a little while after reaching cruise. I had the halibut, which was decent but not great. The highlight of the meal was the cheese plate with some LBV Port, of which I had a few glasses. The scenery was very nice as we passed over the Indonesian islands, and it wasn’t too long after the meal service had been wrapped up until we started our descent into Hong Kong.

With baggage checked through to Boston, we only had to manage our carry-ons though immigration and customs for our overnight in the city. The arrival time of the Bali flight was shortly after the non-stop Hong Kong to Boston flight departed, so we were allowed to force an overnight in Hong Kong rather than taking a late night flight to the US and then having a very short night in LAX or SFO and then an early morning flight to Boston.

Hopping on the airport express to Kowloon, we were off to the last stop of our Asian tour. From the train we took one of the hotel shuttle busses that runs a loop from the station to a number of different hotels in the area. It was a bit of a ride before we made it to the hotel, but we got a mini tour of the area on the way. Our hotel was the Gateway Marco Polo, which we’d booked using a free night, which made it all the sweeter. Check-in took what seemed like an eternity, though neither of us could really figure out why. My best guess is some sort of system issue, as the person who was checking us in was typing what seemed like a novel before handing us keys to our room.

A modern and well-appointed room awaited on the other side of the door, and had a decent amount of space for a Hong Kong room (especially since we only had carry-on bags). The hotel provided some cool amenities, including two free beers in the mini-fridge (which were consumed before bed), and a cell phone with free data and local calling. The cell phone would prove to be very helpful the next day when we were walking around the city.

Day 17 – Tim Ho Wan and Flying Thrones
One of the main motivations of the layover in Hong Kong was to get pork buns. Not just any pork buns, but those from Tim Ho Wan, which are worth a trip to Hong Kong on their own (trust me, I’ve done it). The trip across the city to HK station was easy enough thanks to the very efficient subway system. When we arrived the busy restaurant there was a little wait before we could sit, but once we did we ordered in record time. The seating situation was a bit cramped, and we had people quite close on either side of us. Food started to arrive quickly and we dug in. The pork buns come three to an order, which presented a problem… the buns didn’t split easily and we didn’t feel like doing rock/paper/scissors to see who would get the 3^rd. So logically we each had to get an order… along with some shrimp noodles, fried turnip cake, har gaio, and shui mai, we had a great brunch.

Wanting to walk around a while before getting on our 16hr flight, we headed back to Kowloon to check out the Avenue of the Stars. However, upon arriving we found that the waterfront avenue (the main attraction) had been closed for construction, and the statues (not the main draw) had been moved to a garden not too far away. The sun had come out and I stupidly had left my sunglasses back at the hotel, so it was almost painful to be out in the bright sun. We walked around for a bit before heading back to the hotel. On the way we stopped at a 7-11 for some drinks, and also grabbed some kinder eggs. Back in the AC we rehydrated and played with the kinder egg toys before packing up and checking out.

The airport express whisked us back to the airport, where we inquired on the status of our checked bags at the first class counter (they were safely stored and ready to be transferred to our flight to Boston). Planning to lounge hop until our flight, we started at the first class section of the Wing. Settling into two bright red tufted leather armchairs we started what would be the first of many glasses of champagne (in this case, Moët rose). Two more glasses each later and we were ready to freshen up. I had asked about a cabana when we first arrived, and there was no wait when I asked. However when we were ready there was about a 5min wait (which was just enough time to grab a fresh glass of champagne).

The cabanas are a super amazing perk of the first class lounge. Rather than the standard shower room in other lounges, the cabana is huge, and features a small leather couch, huge soaking tub, an unenclosed shower, and a separate toilet room. There is even a little closet with a door to the hall where you can put a shirt that needs pressing and it will be returned in just a few minutes ready to go. I relaxed and caught up on some emails and forums while K took a shower. After that it was time to move off to the Pier, another of Cathay’s first class lounges.

Luckily we were able to take the train to the Pier instead of walking the length of the terminal, though we would have to walk back as the train only runs in one direction for screened passengers. Unlike the Wing, which is on the second level of the terminal, doesn’t have a roof, and is open to the rest of the terminal, the Pier is below the main level. The décor was very elegant thanks to a recent renovation, and despite having ceilings and being broken into smaller rooms, the space still felt warm and inviting. I left K in the main lounge area to grab a shower, which was nice, but I think I like the shower suites in the business class lounge a little better (I think they are a little more sleek, rather than more colors and quite a few dashes of gold).

Cleaned up, we went to the main dining area, where the food is self-service but we got some wine brought to us. The food was displayed artfully in the pantry and we selected a few options to bring back to the table. Our glasses of grüner veltliner were crisp and light and paired very well with the richer food. The Greek salad was pretty good, the potatoes in the salmon dish were a little too al dente, and while the olives were great, the rest of the charcuterie was only decent, not great.

Having spent a few hours in the Pier, it was getting closer to boarding time, so we decided to make the trek back to the Wing for the last little bit before our flight boarded. Arriving at the Wing we had a bit more time than anticipated, so we had enough time to drop into the restaurant for a little more food (mostly dessert, including chestnut cake and some mango pudding and some more champagne), before it was time to head to our gate, which was conveniently only 2 gates down from the lounge exit.

Boarding the plane, we were the only first class passengers to take the first left down the aisle from 2L to our seats (1&2A). The Cathay first class cabin is arranged in a 1-1-1 configuration, but the center seats open to the right, and share a row with the seats along the right windows. This means that the left seats (the A’s) have their own aisle and are very private. Sitting down we were greeted by Dallas, the senior cabin attendant, who was very friendly and would provide great service throughout the flight. The seats were huge, and we had to take a bunch of pictures of each of us in the seats, and Dallas insisted on taking one of both of us in K’s seat (with room to spare). I sat in K’s guest seat while the rest of the plane boarded, and were quickly offered a bite to eat. We started with a glass of Krug, and a scallop with zucchini and endive and mango. After a second glass of champagne, it was time for departure, so I made my way back to my own seat.

After push-back we had a short taxi, but a longer wait before we lined up for 25L. I counted at least 4/5 take offs before we made the turn down the runway. The huge GE’s spooled up and soon we were racing by the rest of the airport and then pushed back into our seats as we shot skywards towards home.

Once we started to level off, Dallas came over and asked if we wanted to dine, and since we did, if we wanted to eat together. I made my way to K’s guest seat, but once the table was set, realized that my shoulders didn’t fit and I was pretty squished. K took pity on me and we switched positions. First up was a caviar course with two more glasses of Krug each.

Next I switched to a very nice German pinot noir before my next course. There was a bit of a delay as we hit a bit of weather, and they wouldn’t be serving soup until it cleared out. K ate her salad while I enjoyed a bit more wine. After about 5-10 minutes the plane settled down, and my food came. It was advertised as a lentil harissa soup, but when it arrived, it was lentil-less. Despite the missing main ingredient, it was still good, albeit not what I was expecting.

Our main courses were next to arrive, my pork and K’s steak. The pork, summed up in one word, would be “meh”. On the menu it was described as “confit side of pork, French beans, assorted mushrooms, and orzo pasta.” However when it arrived, there was a noticeable lack of beans. It was also not particularly flavorful or tender, it was certainly a big let down as compared to the food on Japan Airlines and in the Cathay lounge. K’s had ordered the tenderloin (which I suspect may have been swapped out for a different cut), which had good flavor, but was overcooked and somewhat chewy. My theory on the cut not being a filet was that it didn’t seem to have the right shape and was served bone-in, something that neither of us had seen before.

I left a considerable amount of pork behind, so I was very ready for the cheese course of a blue, Pont l’Eveque, and Camembert, which appeared next along with a glass of Sauternes. K skipped this and went straight to dessert with a warm caramel fig cake. Along with the caviar course, this was the highlight of the meal, and soon I gave K back her seat and returned to mine, which had been set up as a bed. Wanting a nightcap I asked for a JW Blue, which was quickly brought with a small plate of chocolates. After a second JW I reclined fully and tried to get a bit of sleep.

The timing could have been a bit better, but I awoke to realize that my head cold/sore throat/cough decided to come back with a vengeance several hours into our 16hr flight. I started to self-medicate with Hong Kong milk tea, which arrived on a tray with a teapot, extra creamer, sugar cubes, a cup and saucer, and a few biscotti on the side. I went through a few pots while watching a selection of movies.

Hoping that the mid-flight meal options would be better than the dinner service, I ordered a hamburger. I didn’t have super high hopes for it to be honest, but wanted to give it a shot. It came out pretty quickly and was actually surprisingly good. The meat was pretty much well done, but still very juicy. My only complaint was that the pickle spear was skewered on top of the bun and caused it to get a little wet/mushy. While I was eating, a PA announcement was made requesting that any medical professional use their call buttons to identify themselves to the crew. We were around Alaska at the time, and I was concerned that we would be making an unscheduled stop in Anchorage. Luckily, it seemed to not be serious as we continued on our way eastward, and it was time to try and get some more sleep

Walking up we were about an hour outside of Boston, and I had time for another JW Blue (or two). I know that some cultures use whiskey as a cold remedy, so the ultra-premium stuff must be even better! Soon it was time to change my seat back from a bed and start putting some stuff away. Our descent and landing were unremarkable, and we were soon taxiing to the gate. Another announcement was made requesting that everyone remain seated when we arrived to allow medical personal aboard first. Arriving at the gate, I asked if I could take a quick peek into the flightdeck, having never seen a 77W.

The entire crew (both sets of pilots) were chatting, and were happy to let me look around. I was surprised when one asked if I was part of the honeymoon couple (I didn’t know those things went that far forward), and was congratulated when I confirmed that I was. Given that I work for an aerospace company, it was cool to see some of our stuff in action (or at least the controllers for our systems). After a few minutes of talking, the medical situation had been resolved and we were free to deplane. Being one of the first people off the plane, we were able to clear immigration and customs quickly (especially since our bags came out immediately), and our ride home (a Lincoln SUV) was waiting to whisk us back to the apartment. While it was sad to be home, since the trip was over, we were both also a bit ready to get back to real life.

Cheers,
-N